Imagine walking into a Dodge dealer right now in 1970.
What color combination on a Challenger would you order to go with your slant six or Hemi (or anything in between)?
Pick an interior, top, and stripe, and trim combination to go along with your make believe order.
Here are some random photos from this website while you think, pick whichever color scheme Chrysler offered.
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“I have a friend in Denver…” yes I do.
As a Vanishing Point movie fan and more than likely anyone who has had a long term interest in the old Dodge Challengers, that one phrase should take your adventuring mind soaring through the expanse of the American West, across the long and often lonely highways extending into the majestic horizons.
I live in California.
California, once imagined a land of free and easy people, thanks to a generation of flower children, hippies, and surfers, but prophetically enough, even in 1971 when the movie was produced, California is the emotionless machine run by mean faced clipped haired nazis enforcing the law that ultimately brings the story to its abrupt end, by means of that fatal road block. That marked the physical end of “Soul Mobile”, the “Last American Hero” the last “Beautiful Free Soul Spirit” so dubbed by Super Soul himself.
But the Spirit lives on.
Okay, I have a friend in Denver and I live in California, near “Frisco” as Kowalski puts it.
My roof needs be repaired and one of the only people I know who can replace the roof is my friend who lives in Denver.
The plot is forming…
The question is, will I ever take my 1970 Dodge Challenger R/T to Denver to be repaired so I can then drive back from Denver to San Francisco and retrace the path of Kowalski on his last drive?
That is, without the abrupt halt in “Cisco”.
Time and money allowing, I’d like to get a few more things done to the car before I make such an epic journey, like repaint the car all alpine white (no blackouts on the white), replace the interior back to stock specs (more or less), fix the super soul radio and tune the engine to perfection.
Sounds like a plan.
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I was driving one night trying to beat the sunset. I knew my lights might cut out and I didn’t want to drive after dark.
Well, I got a later start than I wanted and although my headlights were working, my tail lights were out, as evidenced by some guys behind me in an SUV that just could not stop flashing his headlights from behind me.
I knew what he was trying to tell me. I was only a few blocks from where I needed to get to, but this guy was so persistent I waned to get him off my back, so I took the next right just to get him off my case.
I hadn’t worked on my 1970 Challenger for a while, but it was about time I change that intermittent light switch. I had problems with in off and on since I bought the car back in 2006. On the over 350 mile drive from Los Angeles, I did uncover a couple of problems. The dash lights would cut out , which is not really fun when you would like to know how fast you’re going and how much gas you have left. Another problem was I couldn’t fill up the gas tank without gas spilling out the worn tank seal (fixed that several years ago).
She was a real eye catcher though. From LA all the ways up, strangers would give me the thumbs up. When I bought the car it had a 1971 R/T stripe kit (black) and a factory rear wing spoiler.
Okay, so after 14 years, I’m finally getting around to changing out the headlight switch and the dash dimmer.
I was pleased to see these parts a readily available on line. I found my parts from a highly rated E-Bay seller. The price for these parts are nearly $100 each, but unlike buying the parts from the Dodge Dealer in the 1970’s, these muscle car parts sellers 40 years later know they’ve got us baby boomers just where they want us, willing to shell out some cash to keep the lights on their 40 year old muscle machine.
Fortunately, changing the dashboard switches on a 1970 Dodge Challenger is very easy. You need to know which panels to remove, and the watch word when you’re working with 40 year old pieces of plastic is, do not force or overtighten anything! One, those plastic pieces are not as strong as they were when they were young-uns and two, you know they’re going to be expensive to replace!
Here are some detailed images of the headlamp and dash dimmer switches, the 1970 version had the white dot on the toggle..
Total time to replace, about an hour, taking my time.
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As a result of a stray meteorite dropping from a construction overpass at Willow and 101
It means I’ve got to drive my 1970 Challenger to work.
After being spoiled by these new cars like my Outback with all their new technology, it’s back to getting workout driving the Challenger until I can get my windshield replaced. Without power steering and a heavy clutch and manual transmission, so sophisticated safe devices and a keyed entry.
It’ll be fun, but just not as mindless as commuting in a late-model driver.
See yah!
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The Dodge Kid in his youth about 1976.
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Blog Note: I was looking at old drafts I hadn’t published and found this one needing a bunch of old photos lost in archive. I found them…
Since you all haven’t noticed the link on the side that takes you to the 2008 Challenger prototype article, I decide to blog about my experience and stick the link to VALID CONCEPT in the article (se below at the end of the text).
It was April of 2006 I got connected via Trans Am Challenger Owners Registry with an auto writer named Richard Truesdell who had a spot with the 2008 Dodge Challenger prototype. He wanted to gather a group of the original Challenger owners in the San Francisco area to meet him and the prototype at Laguna Seca Raceway for the two-day photo shoot in May 2006. He was particularly interested to hookup with vintage T/A owners to key on the Trans Am connection with Laguna Seca. Two of us T/A owners would respond, Reno Debon and myself.
At the time, I was attending Chinese Medicine School getting ready for finals and the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to indulge in my hobby was put to some test. I was offered to stay with the rolling publicity shoot for two days but opted only to stay aboard only for the 1st day shoot at the Laguna Seca in effort to go back home to Menlo Park, CA and then to Santa Cruz, CA to catch my late afternoon acupuncture classes.
The afternoon before, I drove my garage queen T/A the 90 miles drive down to Monterey, with my friend Rock Woo driving my Ford Explorer with repair tools just in case. It was the longest drive I would take with the T/A in restored condition and it ran very well.
We needed to be ready to begin in the early morning the next day so I sprang for a nice room at Carmel Valley Ranch to catch some zz’s beforehand. Actually, the night we arrived, Rich Truesdell hosted all the Challenger owners to a dinner at one of the seafood restaurants on Cannery Row where we had some spirited talks about the motor world.
The next day started early with photo shoots beginning in the parking areas of Carmel Valley Ranch trying a variety of ideas.
Eventually we made the winding drive to Laguna Seca to find areas to shoot. Rich was hoping we could get on the track, but for some unfortunate reason, we were not allowed not take our Mopars, even the prototype under the finish line straight away under the large banner there. I’m sure they were afraid of a bunch of donut patches showing up as if by magic on their pretty racetrack (one that I had driven on with my Mustang for my first open track with the NorCal Shelby Club).
Instead we found a couple of parking areas, one in the infield. We tried multiple configurations of staging our Challengers, included is the group shot with all participants including the secret agent Chrysler guys who were traveling with the new experimental production vehicle. I can’t remember exactly, I think the prototype cost $4 Million?
After a very busy morning of shooting, I had to leave, rededicating myself to the study of Chinese Medicine of where I had a perfect attendance record (believe me, it was torture that I made myself to leave). I sacrificed going on a group cruise to Cannery Row and later to take my T/A with the two other vintage Challengers (a Hemi and and the other T/A) asked to continue on later to beautiful Big Sur for “on the road” shots the you can see in the linked article “Valid Concept.”
Now it’s 2016, I no longer have my Red T/A, and now all that is left are the memories, a few photos, this little article and my Acupuncture License. I can spend a life time needling myself out of this self-induced musclecar-deficient depression.
You can check out several photos below.
CKY
CLICK ON THE VALID CONCEPT IMAGE below TO GO TO RICH TRUESDALE’s ARTICLE FEATURING OUR THE CARS IN THIS BLOGPOST
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PHOTO BLITZ with Captions
Early morning at the resort, helping a fellow Challenger owner jump start his semi with my unscathed vintage battery.
Photographer Truesdale loved this shot, two dudes screwing with their classic muscle cars. Me with my previously unscathed show battery terminals. Buzz Graves with his orange Hemi-Powered machine
Dig it! The Prototype teams up with some real T/A Challengers.
Rear end shot in one of the parking lots of Carmel Valley Ranch.
The Chrysler guys were joking about how we had to pack our cherished cars together, remembering the many times they’ve had to cram cars together at the factory. My friend Rock is in the background. Yes, we had to hide in our cars while the shots were made.
What do you do with a bunch of vintage Challengers? Make a sales ad.
Secret Agent from the Chrysler Plant
The Three Amigos, Reno Debon, Challen Yee, and Buzz Graves with the HEMI Shaker.
Get back to your cars, Let’s try it this way
No, let’s try it this way… no that way…
So this is how you get some of those weird shots. Don’t forget your athletic cup.
Let’s fuel up and head to the race track. Nice way to attract attention.
Reno Debon’s T/A
We’re on the roll
Overlooking Laguna Seca
Laguna Seca parking area
My old pride and joy. The unintended garage queen.
The Reno Debon T/A and Company
Have you seen this style name plate?
On an infield area at Laguna Seca, the photo group starts small with the prototype and the two vintage T/A’s in attendance.
Move them doggies around
Yeah, Baby. That’s some real Mopar
Drivers! To your Cars!
Let’s try it this way!
Action Shot! Challenger T/A door opening, write it up.
Post it. A rare picture.
Another Rare picture, a vintage blue on blue 1970 HEMI car owned by Jeff Lederman.
We got to highlight each of our cars, I went first because they knew I had to leave early.
Nice pic, but yes, that ladder is very close to my car.
Yes, very close.
It was fun while it lasted. Once in a life time photo shoot. Hope you enjoyed my little walk back in time.
*****
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The Dodge Kid in his youth about 1976.
Copyright © 2016 ChallenYee.com TheDodgeKid.com BestBuckBuck.com TeamBetterLiving.com All Rights Reserved.
Getting a more personalized or stock look with a Torsion Bar Adjustment
One of the unique features of a classic Mopar is the front torsion bar used in place of the commonly used coil spring front suspension. The torsion bars have an adjuster which allows control of the front end ride height without replacing any parts.
In the past, on my first Challenger (1971), I needed to increase my tire clearance when I changed from the stock 70 series tires on skinny 14 inch wheels to F-60’s on 15×10 inch mags.
Check out the size of those mags and tires on my first car. No doubt needed to crank up that fender clearance! Taken in 1981 by my friend Mike Avery in San Diego, while we were in the Navy,
Today, I want to increase the front end height, not for tire clearance problems, but to change the appearance of 1970 Challenger to appear more stock.
Before I changed my suspension, the car rode about two inches lower, due to worn leaf springs. After I changed to “stock height” HD rear leaves from Firm Feel, the rear end rode higher than I expected. Replacing the front torsion bars increased the front end height (about 3 1/2 inches) but that was easily adjustable.
My initial desire was to keep the same front end height as before the suspension work, but the previous ride height was way too low for the new rear springs and the car looked “jacked up”. At the suspension shop, we raised the height and kept a slight rake on the car although the guys at the shop thought it looked better leveled out…
Alternately, in the 1970’s a lot of guys raised the front ends high to give their Mopars a bit of that “Super Stock” look.
After driving the car for almost a year, I think giving the car a more decided “level-look” rather than a “slightly raked” look matches what I want out of the appearance, so I wanted to raise the front end to emphasize more of a showroom look than modified look.
Making the Adjustment
In order to do this, I decided to do it manually, meaning no power assisted tools. I first used my non-ratcheting breaker bar, but figured out it would take too long when I could only get about an 1/8 of a turn per pull with the car on the ground. I ordered a long handled ratchet to get the job job.
I looked on-line and found a nice black-parkerized Proto 16-inch ratchet, the same length of my breaker bar, and it gives me adequate leverage to pull on the adjuster screw while laying on the ground. If using a standard depth 3/4 inch socket, it’s helpful to use a short extension to both clear any undercarriage obstruction and allow ground clearance for the swing of the ratchet handle.
Before the adjustment, the distance from the ground to the apex of the froth wheel well (using the center of the wheel cap for a reference) was 24 inches (BTW, I am running 235/60/15 BFG’s, the equivalent to the old F-60’s which was the largest option sized tire for the E-bodies, only the T/A model had the larger G-60 on the rear).
After approximately 5 complete turns of the adjuster in a clock-wise, or tightening direction, increased the height by approximately 3/4 inch. I did this pulling on the ratchet about an 1/8 of a turn at a time x 40 pulls.
A standard 3/4 inch half inch drive socket with a short extension (not shown) would work well to help clear the lower control arm, under-carriage, and allow ground clearance when adjusting the torsion bar. Photo taken on my non-ratcheting 16 inch breaker bar.
If you don’t have an air driven power tool and your Mopar on a rack, you’ll need at least a 16 inch breaker bar/ratchet like this one to have enough leverage to make it reasonably easy to turn the torsion bar adjuster. A 10 inch long ratchet could work if you are Arnold Schwarzeneggar in his prime.
The one I used I bought myself for a Christmas gift, a Made in the USA Proto 5450BL. All the reviews suggest this is a quality tool that will not strip out on you when you on a high torque situation, like when you need a breaker bar. A torsion bar adjuster is not extremely hard to turn but I hate cheap tools.
Here’s the general area under the passenger side lower control arm. Notice the lower control arm is braced with a piece of sheet metal from FirmFeel. This stiffener plate is recommended for heavy duty front sway bars to reduce the stock lower control arms from twisting into mush with hot cornering.
Here’s a closer look at the adjuster for the torsion bar. Tighten (clock-wise) to raise the front end.
I turned mine about 40 1/8 turns to raise the car 3/4 inch, or approximately 5 complete turns to raise 3/4 inch.
Here’s a look at the driver’s side in the daylight. You get a good look at the lower arm stiffener that is welded to the lower arm to strengthen it, plus you can see the torsion bar adjustment screw head protruding from the plate.
Here’s how I measure the height of the car, from the ground to the lower lip of the fender well moulding.
Be consistent and specific on your adjustment. It started at 24 inches, I raised it to 24 3/4. The photo is a bit of an angle looking downward, you’ll need to look directly perpendicular to sight your measurement.
BEFORE and AFTER SHOTS
BEFORE ANGLE: In the back parking lot of Palo Alto High School, the boys’ gym in the background.
BEFORE ANGLE- side view at work last Summer
UPdated driver’s side
UPdated passenger side
UPdated side view,
So what do you think? Car’s have this great capacity for personalization and the torsion bar setup on your Mopar makes tweaking your ride height a snap.
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The Dodge Kid in his youth about 1976.
Copyright © 2015 ChallenYee.com TheDodgeKid.com BestBuckBuck.com TeamBetterLiving.com All Rights Reserved.
The 383 R/T… It’s Alive
With the kids out on a playdate at their friend’s house and my wife busy on her own in the house, and good weather, I finally got around to putting the transmission filter in, putting the pan back on and filling the Torqueflight back up with Dextron 6.
I was anxious to get the car running again, if for anything else, to burn some of the aging gas through the engine and to keep the seals lubricated.
A few details I learned about the Torqueflight are:
The serial number and date code are located on casing on the driver’s side, directly above where the pan seals. The date code has to be calculated from a starting date of July 29, 1961. You can use this 10,000 Day Chrysler CALCULATOR (link goes to MAXWEDGE.com) to discover your date of manufacture. For example, I think mine is 3267, which equals Wednesday, July 8, 1970.
Although my Challenger was originally equipped with a 4-speed, whoever replaced the transmission used a correct date (at least year) 727. There’s another 4 digit code after that says 6396, if that’s the date code, that means the transmission is from 1979. The whole number is PK35158451 3267 6396. If anyone out there can tell me something else about this, I’d be happy to know. I know PK is the factory = KOKOMO.
I decided to use the larger filter that I had to replace the smaller filter that was on the valve body. Most references I’ve seen show the large filter and the final opinion came from the guy at the O-Reilly store I spoke to when I bought tranny fluid.
I also did not use any sealant with the pan gasket. There are several references on the internet that warn you not to put any sealant to avoid junk from floating into your transmission fluid. The new black material-rubber gasket lined up well with the pan holes while inserted the screws.
The fluid capacity for a Torqueflight is 9 quarts, but I only used 7 quarts to fill up while checking with the tranny in neutral and the engine running. There must have been some residual fluid in the tranny, probably in the the torque converter. And I was happy to get the engine running again.
Add fluid quart by quart, and once it shows up on your dipstick, be careful to add maybe a 1/4 quart at a time to avoid overfilling. I used a funnel that fits into the dipstick holder and offers a wide mouth to pour fluid.
Dextron II, from what I’ve read is the best choice for your daily driver. Dextron VI seems to have replaced Dextron II, so I used D6. I’ve read Type F can be used for reach application but it could cause additional wear.
It’s been such a long time since I’ve driven the car, I needed to take it out for a spin.
Ever since I bought the car in 2006, I’ve never driven it with any confidence, it’s been laid up at home or hiding in various shops the last few years. But tonight, I finally was able to take the car out and drive it without worrying if something was going to break.
It’s not as powerful as my 440 but the 383 4 barrel feels and sounds every bit the Mopar big block. Even with stock dual exhaust without headers, the acceleration has a great reminiscent feel with good torque pulling through the automatic and I think 3.23 rear gearing. Nice for a stock engine.
The 383 Hi Performance option (335 HP) has a horsepower peak at 5200 rpm and a whopping 425 Ft lbs of torque at 3400, so out of the showroom you had a high revving engine with the torquey big block which makes a nice all around combination.
Slowing the yellow Challenger down, the drum brakes feel solid and get the job done.
The car needs an alignment to center the steering wheel, but I remember well the feel of the stock steering wheel and the power steering is something that’s appreciated after arm wrestling with my 440 with manual steering!
Now it’s back to another week, albeit Thanksgiving week and I was glad to get in a couple of hours on the yellow Challenger. It’d be nice to keep this car, but I do plan on selling it. I’m a little hesitant but I know at some point I need to follow through.
CY
This is the new large filter with screws torque in. I’ve had this filter for a few years, hence the surface rust.
This is the driver’s side, the tranny ID number and date code are on the rail right above the pan.
Challenger R/T Ranch
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The Dodge Kid in his youth about 1976.
I had hoped to tell you how I put in my new Pertronix Flame Thrower III distributor on my 440 but instead I have another point to make that some of you who are considering the swap will want to know.
I had put in a Pertronix distributor on my 340 six pack Challenger T/A and that wasn’t a problem, but the 340, although it is situation on the rear of the block, has more clearance standing straight up and down and away from the cylinder heads (unlike a 440).
Visually the new distributor is significantly larger, but I did not expect to run into clearance problems.
The first indication my one-day installation wasn’t going to happen was when I tried to seat the distributor into the block.
Without the hold-down bracket, it is easy to see the area where a small gap can be seen. The distributor cannot fully seat without some metal relief on the head.
Being an experienced mechanic, I did not force the distributor down into the seat. I noticed a small gap in the hold down area.
Upon closer inspection, I could see the larger distributor housing was touching the cylinder head at the point of a casting ridge.
This photo was taken before I tried installing the new distributor, so there are no scrape marks to be seen in the area that is circled.
I thought about this for a few minutes, thinking, I bet the guys on RoadKill (that amazingly entertaining show) would probably take a grinder to cylinder head and get the needed clearance but I realized I’m not set up to grind, nor can I take a risk on my driver just to put in this distributor.
Disappointed, to say the least, but saving the part of the future.
PART II
Chevy at Work
This is not a Mopar, but I just wanted to post these photos for Roger (left) at work who is a proud new owner of a 67 396 SS Chevelle. Jim (right) owns an old restored 340 Dart. I’m waiting for him to drive that to work.
Congratulations Roger, nice ride.
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The Dodge Kid in his youth about 1976.
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What happens when your only commuter car is your classic and when you’re about to get in the car to go to work you notice that one of your exhaust tips/pipes looks like it has lost its mojo? It’s hanging down almost dragging on the ground. This is what happened a few weeks ago.
That’s one thing about driving the 45 year old car daily, it’s like taking it on a shakedown cruise. If something is weak it will let you know.
I’ve got to drive the machine to work but I do not want the car to look bad… what to do?
Take it to the muffler shop as soon as possible! There is no honor in letting your classic car run around with a goofy looking tail pipe (aside from the fact you’d hate to have it drag on the ground, should that happen!).
I take my cars to one of the local Meineke Muffler shops, the one in Redwood City, run by a muscle car guy named Lupe Garcia. He has been helping me since around 1990 when I used to take my GT-350 clone there. A fellow open track racing member of the Nor-Cal Shelby American Club, I can always trust him to make the right corrections of repairs to my exhaust. Sometimes they’ve done some specialty welding for me, including on my white Challenger.
You think this looks bad? It was way worse, hanging down about twice as much that is shown before I hauled it up with a strand of rope. It was looking pretty UN-high performance, a bit like it suffered from a stroke.
Notice how the original hangar broke away from the under trunk 45 year old sheet metal that is rotted. The detachment process was accelerated because the muffler hangar screw came loose, so everything from the header tip on back was resting on the tailpipe hangar which eventually tore away. There’s not much rot in the car that I can tell, but there are some spots in the “under side” trunk pan that has some weak spots.
Here’s where I tied the pipe up to the bumper. Pretty secure, enough to get me to work and then to a late afternoon trip to the muffler shop.
Here’s the Challenger waiting at the muffler shop.
This is the shop owner’s Mustang Fastback GT which he still uses for open track. Nice clean car with the 1966 Shelby 10 spoke wheels. One of my favorite wheels.
Bad photo but here’s the interior of Lupe’s Mustang, the glove compartment is signed by Carroll Shelby.
Look close… See? “Carroll Shelby”
On the rack again. It’s good to be back up on the rack again…
Lupe doing his magic using tool for delicate work… not
We’re not worried about making it concours correct, just solid, fix it so I can get back to driving again. We can take some liberties with pipe hangars.
….
The Return of the Camry
I just got the 1994 Camry repaired (replaced the transmission with a good 1999 version) and picked it up this last weekend, putting and end to this chapter of daily driving of the Challenger. I was getting pretty use to it and rarely missed a shift after I figured out the little nuances of the Richmond/Long Shifter combination my car has.
Driving in rush hour traffic jams Monday through Friday was getting me more sensitive to people tailgating me while looking down at their handheld devices. I want to have an neon sign light up on the back of my car that says, “KEEP YOUR EYES ON ROAD” or “BIG FINE FOR TEXTING”. Might not do any good however, since I need the message translated into 15 different languages out here in California.
There’s a days when I’m perfectly happy to drive the car without abusing it, I feel like I’ve actually accomplished something noble. And then there’s times when redline tire smoking launches at the highway metering light is just too natural.
ROADKILL
By the way, do any of you guys know about “Roadkill”? (www.roadkill.com). I happened to stumble upon it when I was looking at Youtube. It’s a Motor Trend Channel show featuring two experienced and comedic hot rodders who do some amazingly wild and crazy stuff with cars, almost always beating machines to the outer reaches of the human experience.. It’s become one of my favorite “TV” shows. Very entertaining. Watching it certainly makes me feel pretty sane.
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The Dodge Kid in his youth about 1976.
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CLICK ON PHOTO TO GO TO VIDEO OF MOMENTS IN THE DAILY COMMUTE USING A 440 SIX PACK 1970 DODGE CHALLENGER. Make sure you have a good ear bud or a decent sound on your computer and listen you the MoPar V-8 Big block music. There’s no radio playing since I discovered You-Tube automatically screens music playing for some kind of licensing infringements… so I turn the radio off while I’m shooting videos and do what I can to stay within the limits of the law… sort of like the Duke Brothers on the way to to entering the Gumball Rally. 😉
I am still short a non-classic-muscle car daily driver, but driving the Challenger almost every day for the last few weeks has worked some bugs out of the car and out of my driving technique.
It actually takes some practice to drive this machine well, so having been forced to drive it daily has helped. There’s a saying that “cars like this like to be driven.” Well, it’s true, cars in general like to be driven. Old fuel, stagnant liquids, and dried up seals never did any good for any car and the Challenger is no exception.
Aside from the fact it’s drinking fuel like an elephant drinks water (no one has told it that gas is no longer 50 cents per gallon) and the clutch pedal return spring squeaks a bit, it’s very much a blast.
The more I drive it, the more rubber gets left on the roads around here. However, the main thing is, compared to 40 years ago when I was a teenager, is I’m a lot more aware of how not to put other people at risk and, moreover, despite the increasing number of burnouts, I really do have a mindset of not to thrash the car… it is my daily driver (for now) nevertheless!
Left my lights on and killed my battery yesterday and had to call for a jump…
In case you’re wondering, “yes” it is a real R/T but “no” it is not a V-code Challenger. I figure, I might be just a little too crazy to drive a real V-Code to work in traffic jams every day, but… I think if I actually had one and it wasn’t a garage queen… I think I would. Like Junior Brown sings, it is a “Freedom Machine.”
For those of you who are not versed in Mopar-linguistics, a “V-code” is a manufacturer’s code based on the VIN (Vehicle) number. “V” denotes an originally equipped 440 six pack Challenger or Cuda and those still with the originally “matching” serial number engine and transmission in great condition are fetching $75-100K. Maybe more in conjunction with other very rare option combinations. Not bad for an old muscle car.
And, I got a new ignition in the mail! (more to come).
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The Dodge Kid in his youth about 1976.
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The Dodge Kid 